Like many places in the world, Oman is a country of contrasts. Ostentatious wealth exists beside obvious poverty. Ancient history is the backdrop for leading-edge technology. Benefiting from the benevolent rule of the current Sultan for almost 50 years, and the decision to exploit the country’s vast oil reserves, has resulted in the complete development of the country and a dramatic rise in the standard of living for many Omanis.
Muscat’s location on the Gulf of Oman at the north of the Arabian Sea has made it an epicentre for trade, resulting in a cosmopolitan society with influences from all points of the compass. Billboards advertise major Western brands along the highway beside the breathtaking Grand Mosque, one of the world’s largest, and the call to prayer that echoes across the city several times a day blends with the horns of conspicuous Mercedes and BMWs.
It was into this environment that a small delegation comprising members of several First Nations bands and leaders of a small town in northern British Columbia found itself. They were there at the invitation of LNG Canada to observe an operating liquefied natural gas facility and appreciate the impact of the social investment projects that had been made possible as a result of the operation. I was there with a film crew to documentary the trip.
I will never forget the first morning as everyone came down to breakfast in our hotel. The group of around 15 included representatives from the Haisla and Gitga’at Nations, members from the town of Kitimat, and several of the LNG Canada project team. Each of the groups had arrived on different flights so there was a period of introductions, but I could detect a sense of nervousness about where we were and what was to come. This was the heart of the Middle East - a far cry from the tree-laden Pacific Northwest and an alien environment for most around the table. Whilst reassurances had been provided about the safety and welcoming nature of Oman, there was still an element of concern about what we would face when we stepped out of the doors.
There were also dividing lines between the different groups. All communities would be impacted by the creation of a planned LNG facility in Kitimat, but there were challenges of communication between Indigenous and non-Indigenous. Previous conversations about economic development and shared interests had been fractious and difficult to achieve. Would relations among this group change halfway around the globe, or would dividing lines become greater?
The tour began with a number of cultural visits in Muscat to get acclimatized, before we boarded a coach for the trip south to the town of Sur, the location of Shell’s Oman LNG facility and beneficiary of many social investment projects. Leaving the busy city behind us, the geography rapidly changed, giving way to an arid landscape, pocked with rocky mountains. Spectacular yet bleak.
Arriving at Oman LNG, the first impression was of a sprawling mass of metal pipes and structures spread out across the sandy ground and running down to the water’s edge. The conversation quickly shifted to imagining what a facility of this size would be like “back home”. And yet everyone was also struck by how clean and how quiet it was. There were no chimneys belching polluting gases, no incessant sounds of machinery at work, no rusting and decayed metalwork.
The tour of the interior of the facility further underscored that this was a low impact operation. The workforce - over 80% employed from the local community - were engaged and focused, highly skilled and knowledgeable about the operation, and many happy to share their experiences in excellent English.
The experience was certainly challenging perceptions about what an operating LNG facility would be like. The feeling of positivity was further increased as we visited a multiple community projects that had been made possible by ongoing investment from Oman LNG. A community facility led entirely by women; a museum showcasing the rich history of Omani fisheries; a sailing school for youth; and an initiative to protect the endangered green turtle by incentivizing local kids to capture and return hatchlings so more reach the sea rather than being caught for food. All examples of positive community impact as a direct benefit of industry.
As we reached the final day, the shift in opinion was palpable. On arrival, there was zero knowledge of what a working facility would look and feel like and nothing equivalent exists in Canada, but any concerns were allayed by seeing one up close. And seeing the level of support within a community that benefited from employment and social investment helped confirm the value of a well-managed industrial project of this type.
But the biggest movement was in the forging of relationships between Haisla, Gitga’at and the Town of Kitimat. Shared ground had been discovered, shared perspectives understood and new friendships formed. It was fascinating to observe first hand how this experience in a foreign land had the power to build unity and camaraderie that would sustain better relationships when everyone returned home.
Four years later, I was sat in a restaurant in Kitimat when a man approached our table. It was Taylor Cross, one of the senior leadership of the Haisla Nation Council who I had met in Oman. He was there to celebrate a relations’ birthday but our conversation quickly slipped into recounting memories of our trip together. I was struck by how vividly Taylor described these events, and his tone suggested the lasting value that the trip had had for him - both for his own understanding and for the opportunity to build stronger relationships between communities.
Oman was a delightful country to experience - warm, welcoming and exotic. There is a pervading narrative of hostility and anger that emanates from the Middle East in the eyes of Western media, perpetuating a feeling of fear towards Muslims and Islam. While this is clearly present in some areas, Oman’s sense of civility and honour and humility left a big imprint on me
Today, as the current Sultan of Oman faces terminal cancer and the impending end of his five decades of rule, I can’t help wonder whether a change of leadership will change the sense of balance and progressive outlook that the country currently enjoys. Whatever happens, I will never forget my first taste of Arabia, and look forward to journeying more in this fabled lands.