I think Panama City must suffer from a sense of urban schizophrenia. Over a hundred years of foreign investment - principally from the US as a result of long time control of the Panama Canal - has resulted in the emergence of a contemporary skyline and the visible presence of the globe’s leading brands. The giants of retail and technology jostle for space on vast electronic billboards, vying for the eyeballs in what has become one of the world’s major financial centres - a position that remains in spite of the scandal caused by the revelations of the ‘Panama Papers” and the dealings of Mossack Fonseca.
Yet a short walk along the Cinta Costera - the wonderful multi-use pathway that hugs the coast along the length of downtown - brings you to a completely different experience. Crossing the divide into the old town - Casco Viejo - felt like stepping back in time two centuries. The gleaming steel and gas was replaced by white-washed walls and red tile roof. The streets narrow and curving held small bars and bistros as well as the ever-present gift shops that are a feature of historic old towns today. Dotted with small plazas and with elegant churches on every corner, this was the Panama I had come to see.
The dichotomy of the new city and the old town is best enjoyed from one - or better several - of the rooftop bars that are much in evidence. Blessed with a year-round temperate climate, the nightlife takes to the roofs, offering everything from casual drinks to high-end dining, and as for the party animal, an open-air club scene to rival anything I have experienced. Each one offers a different vibe, typified by glamourous servers, flamboyant mixologists, and the constant toe-tapping beat of Latino music - an intoxicating combination that get everyone’s hips moving.
To truly appreciate the contract of old and new, a climb of Cerro Ancon is a must. Situated just north of Casco Viejo, this imposing tree-covered hill emerges steeply out of the urban sprawl, offering unparalleled, panoramic views of the city’s coast line. Wearing my intrepid explorer’s hat, I set off in the early hours from my hotel, walking the seafront for a couple of miles to the base of the hill.
After a couple of false starts strolling up roads that reached dead ends, but also offered some enticing new species for my Panama bird list, I eventually found the trailhead that wound up to the summit. Conscious that I was against the clock to get back to the hotel for a final interview shoot, I stepped up the pace and was soon glistening with sweat. Even in the early morning, the humidity was intense. The narrow road made many switchbacks as it climbed, offering glimpses to all aspects of the city. Towards the top, I finally got to see the immense Panama Canal. The weather was overcast, but even through the gloom, it was possible to appreciate the gigantic scale of the vessels passing through, and the stacks of thousands of shipping containers en route somewhere around the globe.
With its combination of old and new, history and modernity, Panama City is a fascinating destination, one that warranted more exploring. The downside of a job that often involved short, focused visits, is that many places I have visited tend to be a one-shot deal. You try to pack in as much as possible, but then the experiences are consigned to memory. So it was a rare treat to have the opportunity to make a return visit just 4 months later. It’s amazing how much familiarity alters your appreciation of a place. Confidently navigating through the cobbled streets of Casco Viejo like a local rather than a tourist. Revisiting a favoured bar to share a known vista with a colleague. Assuming the role of guide rather than just explorer.
Sadly, the return visit was all to brief - an afternoon and evening en route back to the airport for an early flight the next morning - but it offered the chance for a more intimate look at the old town. We found a great coffee shop with it’s own award-winning roastery, and took shelter from a torrential rain shower at the Panama Canal monument with its 10 vast carved tablets telling the story of the canal’s creation (which I just about managed to understand with my limited Spanish!).
Visiting a new place always leaves me wanting more. Having the privilege to see it again has cemented Panama City’s Casco Viejo in my heart as one of the most enjoyable locations I have explored. I hope I have the chance to feel at home there once again...